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Unravelling Sunscreen


Choosing a sunscreen isn't as simple as it used to be. A whole new generation of sunscreens is just hitting the market, designed to offer fuller protection against both UVA and UVB rays. Given all the new options, how do you know which is the best sunscreen for you?

Sunscreens help shield you from the sun's dangerous ultraviolet (UV) rays in two ways. Some work by scattering the light, reflecting it away from your body. Others absorb the UV rays before they reach your skin.

There are two types of rays that we need to protect against -

UVB rays affect the epidermis, or the top layer of the skin, which results in nasty sunburns. UVB rays are the strongest during sunny, summer days between the hours of 11:00am and 3:00pm, so it’s important to apply and reapply your sunscreen continuously.

UVA rays affect the dermis or the deeper layer of skin, which contributes to long-term sun damage and skin cancer. While UVB rays are highest in the summer, UVA rays don’t seasonally discriminate and are present at all times during the year so it’s also important to wear your sunscreen during those cloudy winter days too – these are the ageing rays that also increase skin cancer risk. While UVA rays don't cause sunburn, they penetrate deeply into skin and cause wrinkles. It is estimated that up to 90% of skin changes associated with ageing are really caused by a lifetime's exposure to UVA rays.

In the summertime, don’t just rely on your foundation or tinted moisturiser for SPF coverage, as we tend to just use these on our face with our neck and decolletage missing out, but by having SPF coverage in your moisturiser you are more likely to ensure nowhere is missed.

What to look for when buying sunscreen

The first thing to look for is that the sunscreen has broad-spectrum or multi-spectrum protection for both UVB and UVA.

  • UVB protection.The SPF factor rates how effective the sunscreen is in preventing sunburn caused by UVB rays.  If you'd normally burn in 10 minutes, SPF 15 multiplies that by a factor of 15, meaning you could go 150 minutes before burning. 

    An SPF15 filters out 93% of UVB rays, I like to recommend and wear at least an SPF of 30 which filters out 97%. People who have very fair skin, a family history of skin cancer, or conditions like lupus that increase sensitivity to sunlight should use SPF 30 or higher.
  • UVA protection. There is no rating to tell you how good a sunscreen is at blocking UVA rays, so when it comes to UVA protection, you need to pay attention to the ingredients. The most effective and least controversial ingredient for UVA protection seems to be zinc oxide as it is (at the moment) the most stable, although it still degrades, causing free radicals which is why it is necessary to reapply. The other ingredient which is widely accepted at Cancer centres is Titanium dioxide. they are less likely to irritate the skin, and with new manufacturing techniques they no longer leave you looking pale and ghostly.  

Water and sweat resistance.If you're going to be exercising or in the water, it's worth getting a sunscreen resistant to water and sweat. This boils down to:

  • Water resistant sunscreen - SPF level stays effective after 40 minutes in the water.
  • Very water resistant means it holds after 80 minutes of swimming. These sunscreens are in no way waterproof, so you'll need to reapply them regularly.

Kid-friendly sunscreen.The sensitive skin of babies and children is easily irritated by chemicals in adult sunscreens, so avoid sunscreens with para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) and benzephenones like dioxybenzone, oxybenzone, or sulisobenzone. Children's sunscreens use ingredients less likely to irritate the skin, like titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. Unlike chemical ingredients, these protect babies' skin without being absorbed.

Sunscreen for skin problems or allergies People who have sensitive skin or skin conditions like roseacea may also benefit from using sunscreens designed for children. Go for titanium dioxide or zinc oxide and avoid chemicals like para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), dioxybenzone, oxybenzone, or sulisobenzone. Also look for ingredients with alcohol or fragrances, and avoid these. It's also been found that chemical sunscreens can bring on prickly heat.

A brand you like. Even if a brand is recommended by all the experts, if you don't like it, you're not going to use it, so personal preference is really important. Here are some sunscreens that I use and can personally recommend – Invisible Zinc, Hamiltons, Green People Organic Range.

How to Wear Sunscreen

While choosing the right sunscreen is important, it won't help much if you don't use it daily and correctly. Use these tips from the experts.

  • Apply the sunscreen 15 to 30 minutes before you go out in the sun.
  • Use enough to cover your whole body. Don't skimp. A number of studies show that people simply don't use enough - and only get 10% to 25% of the benefit. 
  • Don't forget the easy-to-miss spots, like the tips of your ears, your feet, the back of your legs, and, if you have one, your bald spot. Since your lips can also get sunburned, use a UV-protective lip balm and reapply it regularly.
  • No matter how long-lasting it's supposed to be, reapply sunscreen at least every 2 hours, and more often if you're sweating or getting wet.
  • Pay attention to the expiration date on the bottle. Sunscreen loses its effectiveness over time.
  • Wear sunscreen whenever you're out during the day - and not only when it's hot and sunny. On a grey, overcast day, up to 80% of the dangerous UV rays still make it through the clouds. And during the winter, exposure to the sun's rays can still have damaging effects on your skin.

Sunscreen Isn't Enough

Some people have the impression that wearing sunscreen makes them fully protected against the sun's rays, this isn’t the case. No sunscreen can do that.

No matter how high the SPF, no matter how thickly you slather it on, experts say sunscreen will never fully protect you. This misunderstanding can be dangerous: people who think they're safe wind up spending too much time in the sun and raise their risk of skin cancer and other problems.

So in addition to wearing good sunscreen, here’s some other things you can do:

  • Stay in the shade when possible when UV radiation levels are highest, usually from 11am to 3pm
  • Wear sunglasses
  • Wear a broad brimmed hat 
  • Wear sun-protective clothing, preferably with a UVP (ultraviolet protection rating) on the label